Six o’clock at the Jolly Roger, down by the beach on this steaming Caribbean island. Evenings started early here, for the benefit of the hordes of middle-aged and older Americans who wanted to eat and be entertained and in bed by ten.
There was live music every night and on Tuesdays it was Johnny van Clapton, a Dutchman who had been given the nickname by a bar owner who admired his guitar playing. Johnny had been on the island for fifteen years and last had a haircut around the same length of time. His thinning, greying straggle of straw was pulled back in a ponytail.
I had become friendly with him because I’m a musician myself. He knew everybody.
We were standing next to the little gazebo that marked the “stage” and Johnny was regaling me with guitar talk, as he was wont to do. He knew a lot about the instrument, the players and the technique, and at every opportunity, he would launch into a lecture.
On this occasion, he was interrupted by the arrival of Lucille, one of the waitresses. She too had been around forever and was well known and very popular. She was from the island of Dominica, with dark, dark, shiny skin and hair pulled back in a sort of bun. She had a happy, self-deprecating way about her, with beautiful pert lips and a turned-up nose and she moved in a clumsy way as if she were deliberately not entering the Miss Gorgeous Caribbean contest.
“Johnny, I want you to kiss me,” she said, playing it for laughs.
Slow-witted, Johnny thought for a second before replying,
“Where?”
“Everywhere,” she said. Johnny laughed and talked about something else. He had a long-term girlfriend and they lived right across the road. And anyway, he was working.
“So?” Lucille persisted, still acting.
“I’m playing in a minute,” Johnny said. “Mick will look after you.” That’s me.
As Johnny stepped into the shade of the gazebo and picked up his Stratocaster, I turned to Lucille.
“You not working?” I asked.
“Day shift,” she said. “Just finished.”
“And what are you doing now?”
“Morwen and I are going to have a drink somewhere,” she said. Morwen was another waitress, tall and slim and moody. If I had to guess at her heritage, I would say it was basically African but so diluted that she had pale skin but black features. While Lucille was perpetually cheerful, Morwen, or Wenny, as she was usually called, was okay when she was busy but could be sullen when things were quiet and sometimes downright rude to customers.
She appeared now through a crowd of young, sunburnt rich kids.
She nodded at me and said, “Hi.” Then to Lucille. “Well, are we going?”
“Yeah, let’s go to The Waterfront. Mick’s coming.”
With this oblique invitation, I tagged along and we walked half a mile to another bar, where a Venezuelan singer/guitarist was doing his Latin stuff.
Lucille was all in black, t-shirt and jeans. Wenny had changed out of her uniform into a blue and white seersucker shirt, knotted under the ribs, and very short, stretchy shorts that left little to the imagination. Her hair was straight, parted on the left and swept only slightly sideways so there was a touch of the Hitler about it. Her strong black features gave her a forbidding appearance only alleviated when she smiled.
We ordered some food and a bottle of Sauvignon blanc and I felt at ease in their company – Lucille made sure of that because that’s what she was like. Wenny relaxed and became slightly flirty with me. The two of them fended off the approaches of a succession of local men who, it seemed to me, were rather presumptuous, trading on their race and regarding the girls as their property and me as an interloper in a land where they reigned supreme.
“Oh for fuck’s sake,” Wenny hissed eventually. “I don’t want to sit here and be hit on all night. Where can we go?”
Lucille shrugged.
“Come to my place,” I said, the gallant knight protecting the virtue of two fair maidens.
“Sounds good to me,” Wenny said without enthusiasm.
Ten minutes later we were sitting around the little table on my balcony overlooking a different beach. It was now dark and the air was still and peaceful. We were drinking rum and Coke, aka Cuba Libre, as Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers’ Shadow of a Doubt rocked majestically in the background, the first of an endless succession of random gems on my iPod.
“This is better,” Wenny said, leaning back and exposing her navel in a way that made me think of the times it must have been filled with the semen of some non-condomed stud who had pulled out just in time.