It was the kind of day made for dreamers, warm and blue and full of promise. I eased my truck through a pothole and pulled to the side of the decommissioned logging road. There was a wide switchback here that made a convenient parking spot before the road continued its rocky way up the mountain. “We’re here,” I said to the handsome man sitting in the passenger seat beside me. Ronan was a backpacker from Ireland whom I had...