The parking lot was empty when I pulled into Watermelon Falls (the local people actually called it that) and I was already a little disappointed. Maybe it was too early for a Fourth of July swim in Appalachia. Or maybe the mountain water was too cold, even in the summer. I put the windows up before killing the engine, a rattle in the machinery troubling. It really was a shame I was in so much debt. And divorced. Maybe it...